Steve Pappe/Eater
Ever since Henry Perry, the self-proclaimed father of Kansas City barbecue, opened his first lunch stand in 1908, locals and visitors have tried to define exactly what style of Kansas City barbecue is. Some point to thinly sliced lean brisket, the everyday dish served in ribbons on a soft white bun. Others point to one of the city’s proudest inventions: burnt ends, a fatty, tender cut of beef brisket with a crispy, caramelized crust. But pitmasters here are equally devoted to beef and pork ribs, hand-cranked sausages, moist, salty pit ham and smoked chicken.
The closest thing to a barbecue thesis summary is this: Modern Kansas City “style” is about doing a little bit of everything well and with sauces on the side.
The barbecue restaurants on this list range from walk-in counters with a few picnic tables to full-service establishments with cocktails and cloth napkins. The best way to experience KC barbecue is to visit both the old-school establishments that helped define the genre and the new generation of innovative pitmasters who are pushing its boundaries.
Liz Cook is a Kansas City, Missouri-based freelance writer and creator of the Experimental Food Newsletter. Haterade.
