In the middle of this European waterways 7-day/6-night cruise, pampering passengers, enjoying the Bonvivel lifestyle and knowing that a more unique excursion is waiting for you. We are confident that Captain Craig will introduce us to more fascinating people, views and tastes that capture the essence of Burgundy’s rich history.
Slowly cruise along the Burgundy Canal, we settle into a calm rhythm of life on the water. I listen to birds singing while making early morning coffee on this quiet corner in France.
Later that day, at 5 kmph, perhaps between the Rockkeeper’s houses, La Belle Epoque walks for one or two as a calm cruise. Alternatively, use one of the barge bikes to cycle along the w route that is maintained in a malfunction.
Slow Travel offers the opportunity to relax to taste the typical French region on a cruise with aristocratic flavours.
Day 4
Craig takes us to one of the southernmost vineyards in the Champagne region, belonging to the House of Theinricoeur, where an acre vineyard can be sold for 1 million euros.
Baron Charles de Taysne is warmly welcomed in one of the hillside vineyard plots where four months of pruning have been completed.
He appreciates his parcels scattered across the hillside, expanding the risk of illness, inspiration and mold damage. The Baron explains how to regulate both the density of his grape planting and the size of the lettering of the bottle label.
When we tour his winery, the Baron states that champagne makers rarely produce vintages. 2017 was the last Tinuri Cool vintage. Instead, they blend wine and reserves to create a consistent flavor. It puts a lot of pressure on your tasting skills.
Baron Charles then takes us to his local church. The gorgeous stained glass windows of that size look like a cathedral. Recently performed by the organist from the Sistine Chapel, who was played here. The wealth of champagne that has been passed down for centuries has a rich heritage.
Caviar canapes and champagne welcome us to the Baron’s elegant limestone chateau. Under the child’s family portrait, Baronès Segorene des Teisne pours champagne. She describes the silver cutlery, which combines the family arm crest with Charles’ arms, as a wedding gift.
Day 5
After the morning cruising, we take pictures of quiches, patent crutes, snails, charcoal grilled, cheese, bread, wine quiches and early Burgundy buffet lunches on the sundeck. We have more nobles to meet.
Yesterday was the Baron and Barons. Today we meet Count Bertrand de Voguer, owned by his family for around 26 generations and dating back 900 years, at Chateau Comarine. He explains the challenging balance of maintaining the historic reliability of the Chateau, and describes it as commercial enough to raise funds for its maintenance. Roaming black pigs bought to hunt truffles, but find nothing and his problems are typical.
The falconry display has proven to be a draw when visitors marvel at Sparrow Hawk Tinkerbell’s speed and Shiva’s deadly power. These are not just birds, but they work too. It not only controls the number of crows and pigeons, but also provides treatment to prisoners.
Craig’s Chateau Tour contains some amazing history. On the first floor, the large bath contained huge blocks of ice that were stored since the winter, offering an ingenious form of air conditioning. The winter ice was a summer fruit and was also used in Sorbetiere. When the village children began to play with the children of the family, they would have been pleased to try the sorbet. Like the Tainu family, it was this close relationship that encouraged locals to hide Komelin crafts when the Nazis arrived in 1940.
A scenic tour back to the barge passes the monument of the Battle of Alesia, brutally defeated by Julius Caesar’s army at 52C. A story with a very different ending than the popular Astalix manga.
Returning to board, you’re welcomed by the Riverboat Band Mississippi Jazz.
Day 6
Most guests opt for a quick breakfast so they can walk towards Montbird Market. There, we have a large order with a cheesemonger, whom Harris chose about 30 cheeses during the voyage.
On a 15-minute drive we take you to the completely calm, UNESCO-recognised Abbaye de Fontenay. Tired of the dul and subtle life of modern monasteries, the 10th Cistercian monks looked for a place where order could be created based on chastity, charity and silence. The monks slept on a hay bed, woke up at night, spreading on cold gravel to pray. You are allowed to speak 2 hours a week.
A more sociable evening time at La Belle Epoque. Craig opens a bottle of Tides Recoa Reserve Champagne along with the sparkling Saber to provide an epic theatrical start to the Captain’s dinner.
“These are one of my favorite Burgundy dishes. It’s a meal that local families have had on special occasions,” Craig explains that scallop carpaccio arrives and French onion soup is followed.
Back on our visit to Laroche Cellars, our first wine is Chablis Grand Cru, as our guide recommends. With yet another bottle of Taisne Ricour thriving, Hostess Ema adds a splash of champagne to the tasteful cleansing lemon sorbet.
The main course is served with Charolais steaks individually cooked to order before the chef continues with a classic Mille Feil dessert with an amazing layer of pistachios, followed by a surprising original take.
Everything you need to plan your trip in 2024
Day 7
On a drive back to Hotel Westminster in Paris, we recall a gorgeous introduction to the often overlooked Burgundy region.
Far from the French tourist hotspots, we effectively had Abbaye, Cellars and Chateaux to ourselves. In a small group, we were able to ask Craig questions and talk to the fascinating Burgundians he introduced. C’est Magnifique.
Already remembering the voyage, some guests are already planning a gorgeous barge cruise on the next European waterway.
cost
Hotel Barge Cruise
Based on two passengers sharing the cabin, the 12-seater La Belle Epoque start features a 6 night/7 day cruise from $6,850 per person, with all gourmet food, fine wine, daily escorted field trips, admissions and private transfers for either cruise.
Group Charter
The 2025 charter price La Belle Epoque starts at $77,000 ($6,416pp) based on 12 passengers travelling. La Belle Epoque offers a selection of “themed cruises” itineraries (bookable on a private charter basis) for travelers with specific interests, such as family, golf, walking, and wine appreciation.
Disclosure: Our stay was sponsored European waterways.
Michael Edwards
Michael Edwards is a travel writer from Oxfordshire, UK. Michael had his first travel work published nearly 40 years ago, but he still finds new and luxurious destinations to visit and write about.
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