It cruises slowly along the Burgundy Canal, connecting the Yongne and Soan Rivers, European waterwaysExplore the almost forgotten French pastorals.
It’s an intimate cruise with many privileged moments. It is the quest of the Chablis creators hosting lunches at the Chateau, hosting private tastings by Baron and Baron, and the spiritually calm monastery des Fontenay.
For six nights, this former log barge, first launched in 1930, offers a luxurious French voyage through the finest Burgundy life, including champagne, chatter, cheese, culture, gastronomy, history, wine and more. For Francofeel, this is the ultimate Burgundy education.
Our week is a hotel cruise with guests who board on Sundays and disembark on Saturdays, normally English-speaking, bookings from across the globe. Then get to know each other for a joyous boat party.
Though friends and family are increasingly booking the whole barge for the cruise. Like the six double cabins in La Belle Epoque, European waterways have thin barbs for groups of 8 or 10 in France. EnglandItaly and Irelandplus two big barges ScotlandCaledonian Canal.
Day 1
The cruisers gather in Paris in the golden grandeur of Hotel Westminster and set out for Burgundy in the early afternoon.
Some guests arrive to take a walk in the Opera district the day before, while others take a 50-minute bus ride from Charles Degaard Airport to the Opera and a 5-minute walk to Hotel Westminster.
Our sparkling Black Mercedes driver, Pascal, takes us to the right bank of the Seine, the Forest of Fontainebleau and south. Once the comfort of service is rested, it takes about three hours to get the first sight of the elegant lines of Label Epoch moored in the small town of Resinne. Around the sundeck are thriving boxes of pansies, forgotten, strawberries, parsley and rosemary.
These are truly good times and the best times. Smoothly varnished label epoch with her nostalgic artwork, refined chrome and gorgeous carpets. Although during World War II, the barge endured more dramatic days when she and French resistance secretly transported Allied airmen south. Spain.
Captain Craig, who was welcomed with champagne and canapé, was born in England, but grew up in Burgundy, introduces a crew of five.
Hostess Luna leads us to our cozy, air-conditioned cabin. 20 minutes of unpacking into the drawers and wardrobe, we are a shipyard. Fast rain shower and time for cocktails and canapes on the sundeck. Open bars and hot drink points are available all day, but hostess Emma and Luna are usually around to deliver coffee and cocktails.
Dinner with chromeskis cheese duo, ducks in raspberry sauce, cheese and Norwegian omelet (think grilled Alaska) sets the tone of the gastronomic culinary on the cruise. EMA presents Penand Verglasses 2020 White and Pernand Verglasses 2017 Red.
Day 2
I joined Craig on an early morning “bread run” and returned for a fresh breakfast with arms of bread and patisserie from a local bakery. Along with the fruit salad, pre-cooked eggs and coffee for the day.
Built in the late 18th century, canals were once busy industrial arteries. Well, next week we are the only container of silky waterways surrounded by countless flat trees and occasional willows. A grey heron follows our awakening, diving down to eat black bases, carp and perch. We try not to take our eyes off the flashes of kingfishers and the splash of otters when we cruise through the lock after the lock.
Lunch was a relaxed event with hostess Emma, and I recommend white. Description of the cheese boards by Chaource, Buche de Chèvre and Camembert.
After lunch we take us to Mercedes, passing through a quiet French village, heading towards Limestone Whitechaburi, a village of just 3,000 inhabitants. “Hidden Life, Happy Life,” Craig talks about the locals who live behind closed, weathered shutters. Historically, the heart engraved on the shutters showed a young woman with no cheating waiting to be pleaded.
We announced that we have arrived in Chablis’ land, with 10,000 acres of rolling hillsides laced with limestone fragments. Down to the Laroche cellar, dating back to the 9th century, Guide Regis explains that limestone contributes to wine minerals. Chaburi grapes can only be grown within denominations that have been violently patrolled by lawyers.
Regis guides us through a tasting of five bottles, hundreds of meters in the afternoon rather than in the morning, and five bottles, where the sun makes the difference between Chablis and the best Grand Cruchablis. Preferring to being called wine creators over winemakers, Regis explains that the wine industry is constantly evolving. Vineyard windmill heaters or warming wires are used to counter early spring frost. Carrying sediments to the bottom of the barrel to sprinkle powdered seaweed on the wine is more economical than traditional filtration. Though screw tops are better for wine than cork.
“We are gamblers. We gamble with frost, rain, heat and illness,” Regis concludes he drinks the Grand Crew with satisfaction.
Day 3
“It’s for sale,” advises Craig, referring to the elegant En-le-Franc Chateau. “The asking price is approximately 42 million euros.”
As for price, in the 16th century, the second Renaissance chateau incorporated power and prestige in an elegant proportion.
Craig shows how in a relatively peaceful era the Chateau was designed as a grand house to impress, declare and demonstrate loyalty to the King. Guests were led past the security room displaying Duke’s civilian army. Portraits, stained glass windows and coat of arms of arms all announced powerful allies.
Incredibly, the chateau was built in just eight years. Some save time and money for the power, wealth of the Duke, and the use of trompe-les-painting techniques to make the stone work seem intricately carved. Interior design and decoration will take another 20 years before the chateau becomes “King’s Preparation.”
On a relaxed afternoon we pass the farm, cruise through the limestone quarry and the rock keeper’s house for our workout, then head for another cocktail, canapes and gourmet dinner.
We descend to the cabin where we look forward to 3 days of exploring Burgundy.
Everything you need to plan your trip in 2024
cost
Hotel barge
Based on two passengers sharing the cabin, the 12-seater La Belle Epoque start features a 6 night/7 day cruise from $6,850 per person, with all gourmet food, fine wine, daily escorted field trips, admissions and private transfers for either cruise.
Group Charter
The 2025 charter price La Belle Epoque starts at $77,000 based on 12 passengers travelling. La Belle Epoque offers a selection of “themed cruises” itineraries (bookable on a private charter basis) for travelers with specific interests, such as family, golf, walking, and wine appreciation.
Disclosure: Our stay was sponsored European waterways.
Michael Edwards
Michael Edwards is a travel writer from Oxfordshire, UK. Michael had his first travel work published nearly 40 years ago, but he still finds new and luxurious destinations to visit and write about.
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