A version of this post appeared in the Eater and Punch newsletter on June 13, 2024. Before the shiftis a bi-weekly newsletter for bar and restaurant industry professionals bringing you experiences from leading figures in the bar and restaurant industry. Subscribe now Want to know more stories like this?
The largest festival for the restaurant and bar industry in the United States. James Beard Foundation Restaurant Chef Award The awards ceremony took place Monday night in Chicago. Celebrity chefs and emerging talent from across the country flocked to Chicago for a weekend of parties, panels and award-worthy dining. The ceremony has changed significantly since the 2020 edition, with a new emphasis on recognizing diverse talent from smaller markets. Throughout the weekend, nominees and past winners shared their thoughts on what the awards mean to them and how they will evolve in the future.
“My parents worked so hard to provide for us, and I’m so happy to be able to represent our culture, share our story around the dinner table, and be an example of Haitian excellence. When I moved to Oregon 16 years ago, I felt like I had a lot to prove. I was just a kid in a new city, in a completely different culture. It’s been a long journey, but I’m so glad I’m here.” Gregory Gourdet Can (Winner of Best Chef Northwest and Pacific 2024 and Best New Restaurant 2023)
“[I would like to see more bar categories]maybe the best new bar, cocktail bar, hotel bar. But I don’t know if James Beard is really going to go that far. I’m really glad that they started this category 11 years ago. I’ve been a member of the Bar of the Year for 33 years. [of experience] Six of us worked in the restaurant, six in the kitchen, the rest worked at the bar, and the biggest honor was winning a James Beard Award.” Chris Hanna Jewel of the South (2024 winner, Outstanding Bar. Hannah also won in 2017, Arnaud’s French 75 Bar)
“It’s really great to showcase our culture and Lao cuisine. It’s been hard work, it’s taken a lot of work on the chef’s side, on the staff’s side, but I think we’ve done a great job and a lot of people have been very open to new cuisines.” [Being nominated] It was a great thing for the restaurant and for the Lao community.” — Jeff Chancharoen, Ma Dea Lao Kitchen (2024 Finalist, Best Chef: Southwest)
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“The James Beard Awards have evolved a lot. Since COVID, we’ve been involved in a lot of things that weren’t there 10 years ago: community outreach, sustainability, championing small markets, climate change. It’s an honor. I think the change is dramatic and necessary. I feel Chicago should have its own market. No disparagement for the Great Lakes region, but it’s great to see these independent, family-oriented restaurants being recognized in smaller markets like Cleveland, Milwaukee, Omaha, but Chicago should have its own market, just like New York.” Donny Madia A one-off treat (2015 Outstanding Restaurateur Award Winner)
“[When I found out I had been nominated]”I cried. I was probably in bliss for a week. It was insanity. I don’t do tasting menus. I don’t do elaborate meals. I’m making food that Japanese mothers have been making for their families for centuries. I really hope to make Japanese mothers proud. People know sushi, ramen, and kaiseki, and I love those things. But those aren’t the foods I ate as a kid. I really wanted to introduce a part of our culture that people aren’t familiar with. People want to try something different. They heard about Beers and now they’re interested in trying Japanese home cooking. I’m really happy about that.” — Masako Morishita, Perry’s (2024 Award Winner, Emerging Chef)
“We have 42 people here tonight and I’m happy to share this moment with all of you. It’s a team that runs a restaurant. It’s a team that shares a vision and a story. Without them, all of this wouldn’t be possible. It’s been amazing and it’s really brought our team together. We’re focused on everything we do in the restaurant, but we’re also focused on what we do outside of the restaurant for the community.” Kevin Tien Moon Rabbit (2024 Finalist, Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic)
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“‘James Beard Award winner’ is something you want to have after your name, like an Academy Award-winning actor. The New York Times An obituary makes a huge difference in the number of people who contact you. I wish James Beard gave you a personal assistant to handle all the media requests for the first six months, because it’s just too overwhelming. What would be more interesting is if James Beard were to look at smaller, tertiary markets, diversify, and find something a little more interesting that’s a little more on the fringe. In the whiskey world, “I’m looking for Dusty‘ [or rare, old bottles] In a weird little liquor store in the middle of nowhere. Yes, James Beard [America’s] Classic [award]But I think it’s super cool to get out there and unearth some more hidden gems in the middle of nowhere.” Toby Maloney Violet Hour (2023 Book Award Winner, Beverage with Recipes, 2015 Outstanding Bar Program Winner)
“I’m so honored to be recognized in this way. It reinforces what we’ve always done: supporting each other and doing good work. It means the world to my team that the Foundation congratulated us in front of our peers in our city. We’ve been there for 25 years. We wouldn’t change anything. We’ll use the same farmers. We’ll make the same type of food. We’ll take care of our whole team and everyone who visits there. Logan Square is still a neighborhood with great independent owner-operated businesses and I’m so proud of that.” Jason Hamel Lula Cafe (2024 Hospitality Excellence Award Winner)
Disclosure: Some Vox Media staffers work for the James Beard Awards voting organization. Eater has partnered with the James Beard Foundation to livestream the awards ceremony in 2024. All editorial content is produced independently of the James Beard Foundation.
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