Odawara: Japanese castle town invites travelers to become ‘daimyo’ for a day

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Odawara, Japan
CNN
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Carefully positioning the traditional “kabuto” helmet and adjusting the lace chin strap completes the helmet transformation.

Simon Celestin arrived at Odawara Castle as a tourist from France, but now he is the lord of one of Japan’s most impressive feudal fortresses, if only for a day.

Located just 80 km (50 miles) from central Tokyo, Odawara is a wealthy city rooted in the powerful Hojo clan, the loyal Fuma ninja, and the climactic battle fought here in 1590 that shaped modern Japan. It is a charming port town with a rich history.

But too often foreign tourists hop on bullet trains and zip through the city, aiming for the “Golden Route” destinations of Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka.

With international tourist numbers exceeding the peak seen in the months immediately before the pandemic, the Japanese government hopes to encourage travelers to explore the country’s lesser-known but equally impressive destinations. ing.

The city of Odawara has been chosen as one of the first recipients of government support to tell its history, and local tourism authorities are busy devising initiatives that capitalize on the city’s strengths.

Given its history and truly imposing castle, it makes sense to make the visitor a lord (daimyo) and provide them with knowledge about Odawara, including its costumes.

Naoya Asao, director of international promotion at the Odawara City Tourism Association, told CNN Travel: “We sincerely hope that our campaign will raise the profile of Odawara and encourage more people to visit and stay in Odawara.” he said.

“Odawara is usually seen as the gateway to famous destinations such as Hakone and the Izu Peninsula, but there is so much to see and do here. We think making it ‘Daimyo of the Day’ is a unique way to share that. ”

Celestine, 37, chose to join three friends for a curated experience that began with her taking off her 21st century costume.

With the help of costume experts who create costumes for actors who appear in period dramas and Japanese TV dramas, attendees first donned long white underwear and tied a belt around their waists. They then had to wear leggings that were baggy above the knees but tightened around the shins before being fitted with guards made of iron splints, traditionally connected with chain armor.

Individual armored sleeves covered in colorful designs were tied into place one at a time before the “torso” or chest armor was attached. Wearing a wide belt around the waist, each modern warrior was given a weapon.

The long sword, or katana, is for defeating enemies, and the short wakizashi should remain sheathed until the owner commits a crime serious enough to require seppuku. Yes, they were taught. Cut into an L-shape down to the abdomen.

The instructor added that he very much hopes that the visitor’s “wakisaj” will remain in its pod for the entire duration of their stay.

Adding their jet-black, elegantly curved helmets, the four Daimyo are ready to explore their territory.

The four foreigners who came out of the visitor center attracted curious glances from local residents, which may have contributed to their lack of pretension as “daimyo” at first. But as they cross the castle’s wide moat, they are greeted by re-enactors wearing costumes that accurately recreate the armor of warriors from Japan’s Sengoku period, a decades-long civil war between the 15th and 16th centuries. I immediately noticed their nobility.

Strategically located on a narrow plain between the waters of Sagami Bay and the steeply rising mountains at the base of Mt. was under control.

Rival clans vied for control of Odawara, and the castle remained the ultimate symbol of their authority and power throughout much of the 1500s, until the Hojo clan made Odawara the seat of a domain that covered much of today’s Kanto region. did. Five generations of the Hojo clan made Odawara Castle one of the most formidable castles in the country, but it was never successfully stormed in battle.

However, its defenders were defeated in 1590 when Toyotomi Hideyoshi besieged the city with an army of approximately 250,000 men, starving the Hojo clan into submission. A vengeful Hideyoshi ordered the castle’s destruction, but new buildings later erected on the same site were heavily damaged by earthquakes until the Meiji government ordered the castle’s final demolition in 1870. .

It wasn’t until 1960 that the five-storey castle tower was rebuilt in reinforced concrete, and since then other features within the 106-hectare castle park, including thick defensive walls, guard towers and a series of cleverly designed defensive gates, have been rebuilt in reinforced concrete. historic buildings have been restored to their former glory. .

Beyond the cherry blossom trees, spectacular in the spring, Celestin and his fellow “daimyos” crossed another defensive moat and, passing through a gate, emerged onto a gravel courtyard facing an impressive main gate.

Greeted by a group of musicians playing traditional “taiko”, “shamisen” and “shinobue”, visitors watched a performance highlighting the skills of Japan’s legendary ninjas. Sword fights, wall jumping, and acrobatic spins.

Odawara is the traditional home of the Fuma clan of ninjas, devoted supporters of the Hojo family. A museum dedicated to ninjas opened on the castle grounds in 2019, and visitors are encouraged to try their hand at traditional curved swords, improvised weapons, and even harmless objects like chopsticks. I am.

The museum also attempts to dispel some of the myths surrounding ninjas, who were as much spies and healers as mercenaries.

The innermost courtyard is reached by crossing another bridge over a moat, climbing a steep flight of stairs, and passing through a gate set in a 2-metre-thick wall. At night, the bright white castle tower is lit up and requires an even steeper flight of stairs to climb. The castle’s defenders were clearly intent on keeping the enemy at bay.

The castle tower houses a small museum with beautifully preserved local treasures such as scrolls, kimonos, and swords, and the “daimyos” are escorted to the reception desk on the fifth floor. Presented with a scroll bearing the Hojo clan’s official seal, they sipped champagne and looked out over their land from the balcony surrounding the castle’s top.

The top floor of the castle is also where the “Flying Monk” conducts mindfulness classes. Tomomi Iwayama During the pandemic, I have been taking Zen meditation and mindfulness sessions online and working with leading companies around the world, but I am delighted to be able to teach in person again.

Participants sit cross-legged and upright on a square cushion on the floor, and are asked to focus most of their attention on breathing in and out from deep within their bodies. With daily practice, Iwayama says even people with a tendency to wander can achieve up to 30 minutes of relaxed mindfulness simply by focusing on their inhales and exhales.

End the day with a walk through a traditional garden of moss, manicured trees, and stone lanterns, and a feast fit for a ‘feudal lord’ at a nearby restaurant. The lord is greeted by a kneeling geisha and can warm her body by the hearth. Kaiseki cuisine has multiple courses that incorporate local delicacies, such as sashimi and wild vegetables caught on local boats.

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And while the daimyo ate and toasted with local sake, impeccably costumed geishas danced, played the “shamisen” and made sure the glasses of those in charge were always filled. Masu.

Having had their fill, the “Daimyo” return to the castle and spend the night on the top floor, just as their predecessors had done. Starting tomorrow, you will return to being a commoner, so it is important to make the most of the time you have left.

The “Castle Lord” experience can be booked from the official website Odawara City Tourism Association Homepage.