In October, Vancouver became the second city in Canada to have its own Michelin Guide. After weeks of feverish speculation, the city has won eight of his one-star restaurants and 12 Bib Gourmands (in the Guide’s “Great Food at Affordable Prices” category), along with his 40 other restaurants. restaurants have been added to the recommended list. But after a series of press releases, hilarious Instagram posts, and weaponized whining from a few delisted individuals, a somewhat altered Vancouver dining scene emerged out of the fray with price hikes and unscorable reservations. I was.
“It’s definitely a cash grab,” said one Vancouver chef who requested anonymity. It’s cheese, pepper and butter noodles.Let me rest!” To get a hot reservation (usually doable a week or so in advance), book your newly Michelin-starred spot 30 to 60 days in advance. should be planned to But is this the standard of course when Michelin comes to town, or is it just #VancouverProblems?
When The Michelin Guide landed in Florida last June For the first time, Eater Miami editor Olee Fowler says her city’s dining scene hasn’t changed much. “I think the price in Florida has been astronomical for a while. When Carbon opened Rigatoni, it was close to $30. But there’s a situational factor here that’s unique to Florida,” she says. A few big fancy restaurants that were closed and imported from other cities entered our market, and we had a huge influx of people through the star-studded pandemic,” said Fowler. says the booking game hasn’t necessarily gotten harder, but admits that this may have more to do with the sheer size of Miami’s restaurants than the lack of buzz.
in Toronto, First-ever Michelin guide 1 month before vancouver toronto star Food reporter Karon Liu says Michelin-related price increases don’t really matter. “Restaurant across the board, award-winning or not, has already raised prices due to ongoing inflation, so is it capitalizing on the Michelin hype, or is it because oil prices are five times what they are now? It is difficult to determine whether the [restaurants] Still in survival mode. ”
Two of Vancouver’s newly awarded one-star chefs agree. Featured on Main was his one of Canada’s most award-winning restaurants last year. vancouver magazineBest restaurant list of and Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants List — not to mention a Michelin star. In February, chef Gus Stevenhofer Brandson increased the price of the 11-course tasting menu from CAD 125 ($92) to CAD 150 ($110). Regarding the $25 price increase, he said:[I]Nothing to do with Michelin — easy to justify now. Labor costs are on the rise, and even canola oil has risen by about 300% in the last 18 months, but he still feels guilty charging $65 for a steak and potato dish. . ”
JC Poirier, owner-chef of 1-star St. Lawrence, agrees, raising the price of the tasting menu by 40 percent from C$89 (in November from $65) to $135 Canadian dollars ($98). In addition to the labor-intensive and expensive methods of producing fine dining, Poirier says the cost of living in Vancouver has also driven the increase. “Vancouver is one of the most expensive cities in the world he said. We all talk about industry issues from mental health to affording somewhere to rent, but the only way to solve it is to is to claim
As Poirier puts it, living in Vancouver is almost impossible to succeed on a basic cook’s wage.according to Rentals.caAccording to a February report, Vancouver remains Canada’s most expensive city to rent, with an average price of CAD 2,640 ($1,931) per month for a one-bedroom unit.Checking Help Wanted Ads at job bank canada, Line cook wages are about $16 to $22 Canadian dollars ($11.70 to $16.10) an hour. As we’ve seen in fine dining restaurants around the world, the struggle to increase these numbers and stay in business is all too real.
St. Lawrence sent an email in December outlining the new pricing policy, quoting chef Poirier. As such, enhanced health benefits for employees currently include extended mental health treatment, company-competitive contributions to employee retirement savings accounts, and quarterly contributions to designated nearby charities. (the Vancouver DTES with St. Lawrence is one of Canada’s DTES). ZIP Code), they expect him to reach $20,000 by the end of the year.
While Poirier, Stevenhofer Brandson and other Vancouver chefs lean into the Michelin vibe (Main’s sister restaurant, Bar Susu, is on the recommended list and begins serving Michelin rosette-shaped chicken livers). , where the word “M” now features (which weighs heavily on most of the nominated restaurant’s sites), Liu said Toronto’s restaurants are keeping a cool head. “The baggage that comes with Michelin rankings has created many restaurants, especially those with young chefs, and places that are proactive in creating a positive work environment and downplay any mention of stars or Bib Gourmand. Post a post or two on Instagram to acknowledge and then get back to business.”
But in the midst of a cost-of-living crisis in Vancouver, the Michelin effect packs in service night after night, even leading to a meltdown of the published reservation systems in established Hot Ticket St. Lawrence and Maine. The website almost crashed,” says Poirier. “I was shocked. In almost 15 minutes he sold out a month’s supply.”
Stieffenhofer-Brandson says that if you open up reservations for two months at a time, they’re typically fully booked within hours. “This is great,” he says. Plus, “it really makes staffing and ordering easier,” he says.
The wave of bookings following Vancouver’s guide is also affecting restaurants without a star or Bib Gourmand nod. Yuuwa, a popular local restaurant on the Michelin recommended list, was forced to change its reservation policy after a surge in bookings and last-minute cancellations. “We didn’t get a star, but our recognition has increased,” says owner Iori Kataoka. “We’ve always been a small neighborhood restaurant, but now we have to be a little more formal to protect ourselves.” She made sure that regulars also have contact information so that the restaurant’s most loyal customers can actually secure a table.
But what about fussy Michelin-inspired novice guests who might have their expectations set incredibly high? “Now people expect us to somehow get better,” says Kataoka. “In the old days, the table at the front door was fine, but coming here is ‘once in a lifetime’!”
Stieffenhofer-Brandson says some guests on Published On Main may have “a degree of entitlement.” New Michelin-conscious diners may be upset that we don’t have 20 vegan options or a vegetarian tasting menu, but we’re not a vegan restaurant! ‘, but now I can confidently say, ‘This is our program. If it’s not for you, it’s not our responsibility. I hope you enjoy this.
The most positive result from Vancouver’s Post-Michelin Dining High is the impact on the kitchen and dining room floors. “We knew we were on the level,” he says. “But it’s a stamp of approval. People trust the Michelin Guide completely and say Vancouver is part of a world-class restaurant scene.”
Kataoka agrees. “Michelin is well known and I think it is good for the city. The staff are confident and look forward to doing more. is a great encouragement for their growth.”
These benefits extend to the customer experience as well. Miami, like Vancouver, has seen a noticeable level-up in terms of service since the guide was published. say. “Miami is notorious for terrible service, but the service is even more awkward, breaking tables and doing little touches you’ve never seen before.”
Even restaurants that weren’t selected for the guide may have the potential to motivate them to improve next year. One surprising omission in our guide to Vancouver was L’Abattoir, a staple of French-influenced West Coast cuisine in the city for over a decade. Operations manager Chad Clark called Michelin for feedback and was told that the restaurant had been left behind because the scallops were overcooked. “When he found out the guide was coming to town, the chef said, ‘Come to Jesus,'” says Clark. “The fact that he failed to earn a star in his first year speaks to his passion for teaching our team to understand our true and consistent commitment to the world-class execution of our culinary program. It inspired me even more.”
Almost six months after the awards ceremony, there seems to be general agreement among local industry insiders that Michelin is a positive addition to Vancouver. One restaurant manager, who wished to remain anonymous, said: Michelin’s original concept was to get people to travel. If they see us as a hub of culinary experiences and people come here and enjoy their meals, that’s good for all of us.
“As for people’s egos exploding, well, it’s just a question for them. How upset can you get if you don’t get a star? A great restaurant is a great restaurant, regardless of the awards, and Stars doesn’t change that.”
Nikki Bailey Award-winning freelance travel, food and wine writer whose work daily telegraph, BC Living, and whistler traveler. Meredith Lynn Illustrator and pattern designer based in Detroit.
